As the Chinese expanded across the plains, minority peoples were pushed further into the mountains. The result was the spectacular Longji Titian or Dragon’s Backbone Terraces which coil in layers around the mountains of Longsheng County to an altitude of over 3600 feet. Construction began in the Yuan dynasty (1271-1368) and continued right up to the Qing dynasty (1644-1911).
During the spring time when the fields are irrigated, the terraces glisten like metallic ribbons. By summer they bloom into a sea of spiraling green. Autumn is harvest season when the mountains are bathed in golden hues. Sometimes in the winter they are dusted with snow.
The most famous terraces are located at the villages of Ping’An and Jinkeng, home to the Zhuang and Yao peoples. The terraces are largely the work of the Zhuang, who with a population close to 18 million are the largest of China’s minority groups. They share their linguistic roots with northern Thai speakers and follow a traditional animist faith known as Shigongism. The Yao have a population of less than 3 million and are said to have migrated from Hunan over 2,000 years ago. Their spiritual routes stem from Taoism. Yao customs are extremely varied. Up in the Longsheng region the Red Yao women traditionally cut their hair just once in their lives between the marriageable ages of 16 and 18. The hair is collected and worn like a headdress, which is said to bring longevity and prosperity. Originally if a man caught a glimpse of the hair, he’d be forced to live with the family for three years as a son-in-law. These days a curious visitor is more likely to be invited in for a glass of Longji tea or wine.
The terraces are a credit to the perseverance of the Zhuang and Yao peoples and make for a great spot to hike and learn more about minority cultures.