The Qinghai – Tibet express train arrives on a daily basis all the way from Beijing, bringing with it hundreds of migrants. It is one of many examples of how Lhasa or ‘place of the gods’, has been experiencing a massive transformation. The explosion in domestic tourism has meant that in peak season the city is flooded with people from all over China; so what’s all the fuss about?

Lhasa, perched at an altitude of 3600 metres on the roof of the world, remains a place of many wonders. Beyond modern Chinese architecture resides a bustling old town that contains some of the most important sites in the Tibetan world. As you walk through the dimly lit corridors of the Jokhang Temple past the flickering butter lamps and wafts of incense you are cast into a world that has barely changed for centuries.

The majestic red and white Potala Palace, former seat of the Tibetan government continues to dominate the town centre. However today it is the waves of pilgrims flocking in from the countryside that are the flagbearers of Tibetan culture, keeping its rich traditions alive. A visit to Lhasa presents an opportunity to witness a unique way of life that is rapidly disappearing.